From Aspiring Farmer to Award-Winning Texas Pitmaster: Matti Bills' Journey

In the vibrant world of Texas barbecue, few names resonate as powerfully as Mattison "Matti" Bills, an award-winning pitmaster from San Antonio known for her culinary finesse and distinctive flavor. With her roots in farming and butchery, Bills has carved a niche for herself as the creative force behind Howdy Child, a popular BBQ spot in Pearl’s Food Hall.

The Heart of a Pitmaster: The Journey Begins

Matti Bills’ journey to barbecue fame is as unconventional as it is inspiring. Hailing from a long line of Texan butchers, she grew up immersed in the surroundings of her grandparents’ sandwich shop, fostering a love for cooking. However, her initial aspirations did not include barbecuing. After briefly studying business at St. Edward’s University, she decided to become a farmer. It was through a farmer relief fundraiser that she got her first taste of cooking professionally. This propelling experience led her down an unexpected path towards pitmastery.

A Small Space, Big Flavor: The Howdy Child Experience

Located in a modest 250-square-foot space next to a burger joint, Howdy Child may seem unassuming, but its impact is anything but small. Matti Bills has made this spot a staple in the competitive BBQ scene of San Antonio. In just a few years of operation, her pastrami brisket—dubbed “The Classic”—has amassed a dedicated fanbase. This dish, featuring hand-carved pastrami paired with yellow mustard and Swiss cheese served on naturally fermented sourdough, offers a unique twist that reflects her culinary background and commitment to quality.

Breaking Barriers in a Male-Dominated Industry

Despite the hurdles she faced in a predominantly male-dominated industry, Bills has established herself as a formidable contender among Texas pitmasters. Her recognition as having the Best Pastrami in Texas by Texas Monthly in 2017 at just 26 years of age is a remarkable feat. Grit and determination, bolstered by the rugged work ethic gleaned from her father and grandfather, have enabled her to thrive amidst the pressures and challenges of running her own business.

Insights from Female Pitmasters Transcending Tradition

Texas barbecue's landscape is gradually transforming, with a rising number of women leading the charge. Similar to esteemed pitmasters like Norma Frances “Tootsie” Tomanetz and LeAnn Mueller, Bills exemplifies the blend of tradition and innovation that female pitmasters bring to the table. Tomanetz’s long-standing prowess at Snow’s BBQ exemplifies mastery of classic techniques, while newer entrants like Bills push the envelope, creating an inclusive atmosphere for aspiring chefs of all backgrounds.

Cultivating Community and Collaborations

In her role as a pitmaster, Bills thrives not just on the joy of cooking but also on fostering connections within the community. The evolving barbecue scene, showcased in interviews with fellow female pitmasters, illuminates a supportive network where knowledge and techniques are freely exchanged. Bills embodies this spirit, welcoming collaborations and sharing insights that uplift the BBQ community as a whole.

The Future for BBQ and Agriculture in Texas

Looking ahead, the convergence of BBQ and sustainable agriculture presents exciting opportunities for the culinary scene in Texas. Bills’ background as a farmer aligns seamlessly with her journey in barbecue, paving the way for initiatives that emphasize sourcing local ingredients and fostering a greater appreciation for farm-to-table practices. Just as women in barbecue are expanding horizons, so too are they influencing agricultural discussions in a meaningful way.

As the BBQ landscape continues to evolve, the stories of women like Matti Bills are essential in shaping a future of inclusivity, creativity, and deliciousness in the heart of Texas. Her commitment to excellence not only elevates Howdy Child but also serves as an inspiration for aspiring chefs everywhere to embrace their unique journeys wholeheartedly.